Daily Archives: September 4, 2012

11 years, 6 months ago 8

As a tech rep I get questions, lots of questions!   I jot down some of the most interesting or relevant ones.  Since someone once asked, I thought you might be wondering too!

 

(1.)  FX vs DX sensor size.  Which and why?  Now before we start, other manufacturers, besides Nikon, make cameras with 35mm size sensors 24×36. and also make smaller sensors that have a 1.2, 1.3 or 1.5 lens factor.  To start with, you have to remember that we are now a good 12 years into the history of modern digital cameras.  In the first 8 years, the size of the actual pixel had a great deal to do with how low the noise could be at High ISO settings.  This is still true today, however much better software in cameras that process the images, have allowed very low noise, even at very  high ISOs.  Does a larger sensor with larger actual pixels still have superior noise at high ISO?  Yes, but not by as large a margin as in the past.  So where does that leave us?  If you need the absolute lowest noise, an FX sensor or it’s equivalent from other makers is the best solution.  If you want a smaller, lighter camera, with smaller lenses, and if ever so slightly higher noise at very high ISO is not an issue, you just might be a DX kinda person!  You could save some money too!

 

(2.) Can you use older lenses on new Hi Res cameras and get good results?  Yes, but with qualifiers.  I wondered that myself and since I own a stable of old manual focus Nikkor glass I did a pretty serious test with the new D800, and it doesn’t get any higher than that in terms of  resolution.  First, I picked what were arguably, some of the best of the classic manual Nikkors.  They worked incredibly well.  Now I must admit that most were shot stopped down to f 8 or lower.   Any lens, even those that are not all that great, are at their best stopped down a few stops.  Can the newest, most advanced lenses do better on the current cameras?   Yes.  Does that mean the older lenses “shouldn’t” be used?   Not for  me, I love the feel of the old glass and the fact that they make you slow down, and when you slow down and are more careful, your work gets better!!!  One last thing, using the older lense takes me back to some great memories over a long career,  that alone makes it satisfying!

 

(3.) How many mega pixels do I need?   Wow, now we have really stepped in it!  First I cannot answer that for you, I have no idea what you do with your cameras.  Let me give you some ideas, if you need to make huge prints, (4X6 feet and up), you are going to want at least 24 mega pixels, I said want, not need. I’ve seen massive prints made from the D3s a 12 mega pixel camera!!!  The question may come to mind, how much is enough?  Now we are getting somewhere. A number of years ago I loved stereo gear and I had a large selection of albums, LPs, 33 rpm records, I know some of you don’t remember that, but when I first heard a music CD, all I really wanted to hear was the new technology!  The same thing happened when I first shot the D800.  Do I need it, probably not, do I love it,  you bet.  Could I be happy and do perfectly wonderful images  with a high quality 12 mega pixel camera, you bet, but then I’ve seen files form a D800……

 

(4.) Do I need a Pro body?  If you need massively strong build quality, lots of frame rate, the best moisture and dust sealing, high end, long lasting shutter, and your pocket book can handle it, you bet you do!  If you truly don’t need those things, (think hard before you decide), the answer is no.  For me the D7000 is such an incredible camera, I can’t ever imagine needing more, but that doesn’t mean I won’t own something more!  Always remember need and want may be different but we buy on the strength of both!

 

(5.) Do I really need lenses 400mm and longer?  Maybe, depending on what you shoot!  If you shoot sports, yes, if you shoot wildlife, yes, if you were for the CIA, o.k. let’s not go there!!!  One thing to keep in mind is that with cameras in the neighborhood of 24 mega pixels and larger, you can effectively crop to half  the normal frame size so your 70-300 is really a 105-450.  Actually this is another great example of why the D800 is a super camera.  In Crop Mode the D800 is still over 15 mega pixels.  As great as that is, it doesn’t answer the core question.  Long glass is expensive, and if you have a great need, you just have to face the music and pony up!  If that is the case, let me make a suggestion, the 200-400 and a TC14E II and a DX body, would give you the effective focal length of a range from 200mm to 840mm with and maximum aperture setting of no more than f 5.6!  Let me break that down, with a FX body the 200-400 f4 is a, you got it, a 200-400 f4.  Add a TC-14E II (1.4 tele-converter), and the 200-400 f4 becomes the equivalent of a 280-560 f 5.6!  Now take the 200-400 f4 and put it on a a DX body and it becomes equivalent to a 300-600 f4 (still f4!!!) Now the fun starts, add the TC14E II and you go to 420-840 f 5.6!   Now a 200-400 AF-S VR f4 is not cheap, but the price looks a lot smaller when you look at this formula!!!  I know what you’re thinking, starting to know you guys pretty well!!  What am I doing?  70-300 on FX = 70-300, put it on a DX body and you get a 105-450, which for me is enough!  O.K. I do own a secondhand 400mm f 3.5 manual focus Nikkor lens, which is my long glass for the rare occasionI need one, on the DX it is the equivalent of a 600 f 4.5.  Lots of ways to skin the cat!!  Oh yes, and the D800 in Crop Mode is just like the DX body!

 

(6.) How much is too much gear?  If you can afford it, you can never have too much, however, carrying it is another matter all together!  People buy equipment as collectors, as gear lovers, or to display with pride, and that is fine, all worthy pursuits, but for a photographers intending to make images, you need far less gear.  I’ve probably beat you to death with this, but for general work, (travel, nature, close-up, people) you can do almost every shot with a wide angle zoom, mid range zoom, a telephoto zoom and some way to do close-ups as micro lens or diopters or automatic extension tubes.  How much gear do you need?  Are you a photographer, a collector, or both!

 

(7.) Do I need an expensive Micro/Marco lens for doing serious close-up work?  Now we have that pesky “need” word again!   If you do a lot of close-up work you might need a Micro  lens.  Which one depends on what kind of subjects you shoot, but a Micro lens is the trick if you shoot close-ups a lot!  Are diopters and automatic extension tubes, bellows less affective?  No, but they are not as convenient.  I do a great deal of close-up work and I own a 55mm Micro Nikkor, a 105mm Micro Nikkor, and the 200mm Micro Nikkor, but then I really do love to do close-ups!  The shot at the top? A point and shoot!

 

(8.) Are Pro Grade lenses better than amateur based lenses?  Yes. Does that mean that less expensive lenses are not good, of course not!  I love the 70–300 AF-s VR f4.5-5.6  and it is very, very sharp, and is less expensive (about one fourth the cost), and weighs less than the pro grade 70-200 AF-s VR f 2.8 II.  But is the 70-200 a better lens, yes it is!   Lenses are highly complex, and the very best employ ED glass, aspherical elements, and very precise physical bodies.  One thing to consider is the harder you use your gear, the more you need the Pro Grade stuff. All of that comes at a cost.  My advise is to always buy the best lenses you can afford, but do know that some bargains do exist and are worth looking for, my beloved 70-300 is certainly one!

 

(9.) Is flash the best light source for close-up work?  If the goal is to freeze action like a flying insect, or movement, yes flash is the best solution.  Some people learn flash faster than others, but with the  creative lighting System from Nikon close-ups really are a snap.  The one thing you can’t do with flash is see what the result will be without  making a shot and examining it.   I am also using a new tool I learned about from Mike Moats my friend that does extraordinary close-ups.  It is a small multi LED unit, that many manufacturers  make, mine is a Promaster LED120.  I bought mine at a show from Hunt’s. It is small and hand held and can be position to get just the kind of light you want!  That plus a couple of SB-900 Nikon Speed-lights and I can light almost anything!!

 

(10.) What is the best $200. you can spend on your photography?  Actually it’s $199.95,  join Kelby Training!  Now I know you think this is a self serving suggestion, but honestly, I have learned so much looking at all the other classes, (besides mine), there are classes on almost anything you would like to learn from great instructors,  Another great use of your  money?   Check out the Nikon School of Digital Photography, a fantastic learning experience as well.  Education is some of the best money you can spend, the best equipment is of little use if you don’t know how to use it.

 

Keep the questions coming and we will do this again!

 

Blessings,

 

the pilgrim

 

 

Now something really serious!

 

Have you ever asked yourself the key question of life?   Why am I here?  Well on a purely physical level, you’re here because your parents gave birth to you.  On a spiritual level you were created to be His.  He loves you so much He gave His only Son for you.  If there was only one person in the world, you,  He would have still given His life for yours.  Now deciding how to use your life, may just take on a new vision and purpose!